Many women invest hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars in beauty products each year. However, you may not be getting the most from your investment if you are not applying (aka layering) your skincare and makeup products in the right order. If you have ever wondered whether you are actually applying your products in the right order, I have a comprehensive answer for you. After countless hours of research and several master classes with Oprah’s skin guru, Jennifer Brodeur, I am thrilled to share with you how to layer your skincare and makeup products:
Order to Apply Skincare Products
As a general rule, you should apply your skincare products from thinnest to thickest and you finish your skincare routine with SPF. Now, on to the details.
Cleanser
Naturally, the first step in any skincare regimen is a cleanser. For the evenings, you will want to use two cleansers – an oil-based makeup removing cleanser and a water-based cleanser. Your water-based cleanser should be gentle and not dry out your skin. However in the mornings opt for just a water-based cleanser that does not strip the oils from your skin. Rinse with lukewarm water and then pat dry (don’t rub) with a towel.
Now, when it comes to washing your face, you really do not need any fancy tools – just use your hands. According to Bodeur, we are over-exfoliating our skin and we only need to exfoliate once a week. And, anytime you need to wipe your face or neck with a washcloth, make sure you use baby washcloths. Baby washcloths are the only towels gentle enough for the delicate skin on your face and neck.
One final recommendation on face cleansing – do not wash your face in the shower. The water we use for bathing is too warm for the delicate skin on your face. Instead, wash your face in the sink to ensure you are using the proper temperature.
My Routine: I change my cleansing routine with the seasons. In the fall/winter, I cleanse each morning with Caudalie’s Gentle Cleansing Milk and at night with Caudalie’s Makeup Removing Cleansing Oil followed by the Gentle Cleansing Milk. And, in the spring/summer, I cleanse each morning with Caudalie’s Instant Foaming Cleanser and at night with the Makeup Removing Cleansing Oil followed by the Instant Foaming Cleanser. Additionally, once a week I use a Foreo to cleanse in the morning. When I need to wipe my face, neck, and décolleté I use Pupiki Baby Washcloths; they are 100% rayon bamboo and incredibly soft and gentle.
Toner
The next step in layering is toner. Now toners were originally invented as a way to get women to spend more money on skincare. Now, however, they can have great benefits for the skin.
For application just add a dime sized amount of toner to a cotton pad (I use cotton pads in lieu of cotton balls simply because it is easier to hold) and then gently wipe over your entire face. Start at your forehead, swiping left to right, move down your nose, then swipe from the temple down your cheek to your chin on each side, swipe under and below your mouth and then swipe your neck from up to down, and swipe across your décolleté from left to right. There is no need to go over each area more than once, just ensure you hit the various parts of your skin once and avoid the eye area.
My Routine: In the evenings I just use one toner – a Moisturizing Toning Lotion from Caudalie. However, in the morning I swipe with the Moisturizing Toning Lotion by Caudalie and then, once it has been absorbed, I swipe with Caudalie’s Vinoperfect Concentrated Brightening Essence, which helps with brightening, minimizing dark spots and evening skin tone.
Serum
Once the toner is dry and has had a chance to absorb into the skin (usually only 10-15 seconds) it is time to apply your serum.
You only need a dime or two dime sized amounts of serum for your face, neck and décolleté. If you are using an oil-based serum, drop the serum onto your fingers and rub slightly in order to warm. Then, press the serum into your skin, neck and décolleté. If you are applying a non-oil-based serum, then, if the product has a dropper, apply the product directly to the skin. Be careful to ensure you cover your face, neck and décolleté, but avoid the eye area. Slowly work the product into your skin using small circular motions.
Once the product has been worked into the skin, take a break. Go grab a cup of coffee or make the bed. Just give your skin a 3-5 minutes to fully absorb the product.
My Routine: I alternate serums throughout the week – in the mornings, three times a week I use Skinceutical’s C E Ferulic Vitamin C, three times a week I use Caudalie’s Vinoperfect Radiance Serum and then the other day I use an oil-based blemish controlling serum called Black Cumin + Cajeput Serum Concentrate by Odacite. In the evenings, I use Peter Thomas Roth’s Retinol Fusion PM twice per week, Vivant Skincare’s Mandelic Acid twice per week, and Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Mask three days per week.
Water/spray
After a few minutes, you should be ready for your next product. This is where you can add any water-based sprays or mists that you use. There are plenty of water-based mists on the market and most do not live up to their promises so do a little research before investing in an expensive spray. Or, simply choose to make your own face spray with green or white tea. If you don’t have a mist, feel free to skip this step.
My Routine: I use Evian spray or Odacite’s Rose + Neroli Hydra-Vitalizing Treatment Mist; I have also used Herbivore’s Rose Hibiscus.
Eye cream or Serum
Next up is your eye cream or serum. You only need a pea-sized amount so don’t overdo it. Eye cream or serum should be applied by patting it under the eye area – do not RUB, it will cause wrinkles. Gently pat underneath the eye, up to the sides of the eye. Before applying your next product, just wait 30 seconds to a minute to give the product time to absorb.
My routine: While some people apply both eye cream and eye serum, I just use the Baobab Sarsaparilla Serum Concentrate by Odacite.
Oil (depends upon type)
Now it’s time to apply your oil. Now, here is the thing. There is a lot of debate about whether to apply oil before moisturizer or vice versa. Here is the thing – apply your oil first if you use a lighter oil that is meant to sink into your skin and heal/rebuild the layers of your skin. In this scenario, your moisturizer serves as the barrier layer that seals in everything you have done as part of your routine. However, if you utilize a heavier oil (such as coconut oil, mineral oil, shea butter) that is intended to seal in the moisture in your skin, you will want to apply your moisturizer or cream first and then end with your oil to seal everything in.
To apply oil, apply 2-3 drops to your fingertips, rub it together to warm it a little and then press (don’t rub) the oil into your skin using your fingertips. Again, do not forget your neck and décolleté. And then, once done take another short break (2-3 minutes) to allow the oil to absorb into your skin.
My routine: Since I have combination oily skin in the summer and combination dry skin in the winter , I use a lighter oil that is rich in linoleic acid. Specifically, I utilize safflower oil and the Absolute Anti-Aging Oil by Uma.
Moisturizer
Depending upon the type of oil you use, you will either follow your spray OR your oil with moisturizer. You only need to apply a nickel-sized amount of product, but feel free to add a little extra to get your décolleté. To apply moisturizer, start at the base of your neck and with an upwards sweeping motion, apply the product to your face. You should always be applying your moisturizer with upward hand movements. Once you get to your forehead, you should swipe from left to right and back again.
Avoid a combination moisturizer and SPF. Why? Moisturizer is intended to be absorbed into your skin and SPF is meant to sit on top of your skin. Thus, any moisturizer with SPF is either being absorbed into your skin (and you do not want SPF ingredients being absorbed into the skin) or the moisturizer is sitting on top of your skin (and thus, you are not getting the moisturizing benefits).
My routine: I alternate between several different moisturizers: during the summer I use Watermelon Pink Juice Moisturizer by Glow Recipe a Korean beauty brand during the day and Caudalie’s Moisturizing Sorbet at night and during the winter I use Caudalie’s Moisturizing Sorbet Cream or BeautyCounter’s Countermatch Adaptive Moisture Lotion during the day and Herbivore’s Pink Cloud Rosewater Moisture Creme at night.
Oil (depends upon type of oil)
As explained above, if you use a heavier oil, you should apply it here, before you apply your eye cream or serum.
Sunscreen
Finally, last but not least, you will want to apply a nickel-sized amount of sunscreen using the same upward sweeping hand motions that you did for your moisturizer. Ensure you have covered your face, neck and décolleté with sunscreen.
My routine: I use Amavara’s SPF 50 Facestick. A mineral sunscreen made with non-nano zinc oxide, it does not leave a white cast on your face like other zinc sunscreens. I prefer the face stick too as it makes application a breeze.
Order to Apply Makeup
Learning the appropriate order to apply makeup is just as important as knowing how to layer skincare products:
- Primer
- Foundation
- Concealer
- Highlighter/Bronzer
- Blush
- Eye Shadow
- Mascara
- Powder (this is optional. However, if you have oily skin and want to minimize the chances of shine during the day, there are a lot of powders out there that will keep the oil slick at bay during the day. I use RMS beauty’s un-powder during the summer)
- Lips
- Setting Spray
My Makeup Routine
Now, my routine is a bit shorter than this. Since I focus more on taking care of my skin, I skip the primer, foundation and concealer and head straight to the highlighter. Now, I realize that some people have acne or acne scars and the temptation with that is to cover it up. Instead, I actually encourage you to let your skin breath. Many natural oils will actually heal your acne or leftover acne scars. One particular line that delivers great results is Odacite.
Since I skip primer, foundation and concelear, I simply start by applying one soft, swipe of highlighter beginning at my temple to the apples of my cheeks. I follow the highlighter with one swipe of blush that starts on the apple of my cheeks. I smile slightly to ensure I’m hitting the right area.
I tend to alternate between eye shadow and lipstick because I actually think it is usually too much to wear both. If you, however, prefer both at a time, then I recommend against the bold eye and bold lip at one time. Instead, opt for a bold lip and a neutral/skintone matching eye shadow or vice versa.
Once done with the eye shadow (or if I’m not wearing eye shadow), I move to the mascara. Looking up slightly, I swipe my lashes ensuring each gets just the right deposit of color. Again, I prefer a more natural look so I always ensure I keep the mascara application to a minimum and I use really great quality brushes to ensure I get great lash separation.
In the summer I use a little oil mattifying powder, but I usually skip this in the winter. I then finish it off with a great shade of lipstick (that is definitely my vice) and a spray of Evian. I use Evian as a setting spray of sorts, plus, I love to apply as much water as possible to my skin!